Wednesday, 23 April 2014

            Ah, the first (of many hopefully!) beautiful spring days of the year. Nine degrees and nothing but sun! I spent the day at to Devil's Glen with Jared and Justin.
            I had one route in mind: The Project. A line I bolted last year during the winter and have been dreaming of the moves ever since.
            Step One: Get to the crag. Let the epic hike begin!.
Not sure if Jared got out or not. Every men for themselves during this epic hike
            The hike began down the busy road, where cars are speeding by every second. Luckily, one of those speeding cars was a friendly officer that offered to give us a ride. It must of been the strangest sight for any person speeding by and witnessing one man with a shovel, another with a painting pole, and one innocent Spanish man getting into the cop car. The officer dropped us off  at the head of the trail where we gave our thanks to the officer. Then the four  feet of snow started. Due to Jared's unquestionable bravery he broke trail for the team. Jared's third step resulted in half of his body disappearing beneath the white blanket. We all laughed and made a game of who could take the most steps before falling into the hip high snow. 
            The project is on a wall called, "The Sun wall", which, depending on your wants and needs, is perfect for tanning and climbing. . Once we got to the cliff line I rappelled over the project at which point I hung all the draws.It was during that time I sadly realized there was a waterfall running down 90% of the route. Although the sun wall provided an enjoyable temperature, it was also slowly taking away my chance at getting on the project. I decided to jump on whatever part was dry so I could at least touch the project that day.
            The project is around 40 feet high and maybe goes around 5.14c (a rough approximation). It starts off with a crimpy v7ish compression problem, which then leads into a v10 crux. The v10 crux is off a big slopey hold to a micro crimp. The feet are small and you're throwing your full body length to this micro crimp. Once you hit this crimp you have to heel up and hit a mono, bump off this mono, hit an awful slopey side pull and quickly turn your right hand to a side pull to prevent the barn door. Then comes the real crux. The one move I still have yet to pull off. Two juggy side pulls await you for what has now become your personal choose your own adventure situation.

The throw to the micro crimp
            Adventure A: If you choose the straight up variation, you have picked the mono adventure. Which entails hiking your feet really high and throwing to a mono, lock off that mono to hit another mono, hit a micro crimp and dyno to a jug ( I put one session last year with this beta and could not complete the lock off move.) 
I feel Going left of the juggy side -pulls is the easier adventure.
Adventure B: This adventure entails going left to a slopey crimp, hike your right foot up, lock off that slopey crimp and hit a nothing hold (I would love to say micro crimp again, but that is giving this hold too much credit) and hit a good crimp, followed by the same dyno as the mono adventure. This way sounds easy, but still goes at v12+ or maybe harder.
At the end of your delightful adventure you finish off with some lovely 5.12+ climbing to the anchors =)

The Gully
            The days adventure did not end with the rock climbing. I would of loved for the adventure to be over at this point because I was ready for a nap, but apparently the most challenging route of the day was to be our climb out. We squeezed through a frozen gully and climbed up the icy exit. After a few slippery steps we realized this would need a team effort. I (begrudgingly) pushed Jared and JT up the start and they employed the use of a stick (my saviour) to help me out of the final slippery crux.
            This journey led to another Project of mine being soaked. Although this is frustrating it has at least provided with me with a reason to head back to the gym. Which, all in all, is not a bad thing as I learned I need to work on my lock off skills if I want to complete this DG project. Well, I'm off to Kentucky with my dad for 9 days. Hopefully, my passport comes in this week or I'll be swimming across the border.
The things I do for rock climbing :)
The top of the icy exit
Joe Skopec